Visiting São Miguel – the largest island in the Azores – with a baby turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. The island is wild and green, full of lakes, hot springs, and ocean views, yet it’s compact and easy to get around — perfect when you’re juggling naps, feeding times, and stroller walks.
I didn’t really know what to expect or where to get information on how to travel around with a 4-month-old; but as it turns out, it was easy breezy.
Diapers are found in all the supermarkets (Pampers are called Dodot), we just brought our own formula, as we weren’t sure if they have the exact same one there. For the plane we had our carry-ons and only 1 extra suitcase; you can bring the stroller on the plane if it’s cabin approved and we adore our stroller because it’s so light and instantly foldable (Joolz Aer+).
This guide/itinerary is baby friendly, but can be used by anyone who doesn’t want a very ‘packed’ or hiking oriented vacation. Here’s how we spent our week, balancing adventure with slow family moments.
Day 1 – Arrival in Ponta Delgada
We landed in Ponta Delgada and immediately felt the island’s calm pace. With a baby, there’s no rushing — so we first got our rental car with a baby seat (it took a while to get the seat, no stress) and settled into our apartment near the town centre, (the hotel already provided a crib for the baby), and headed out for a short stroller walk by the marina.
My husband arranged a diving trip just there, and when the deal was done, we headed towards the city centre. The area was very stroller friendly apart from some streets that have really narrow sidewalks. Dinner was simple at our apartment, where we called it a day and went to bed early to be ready for new adventures.
Day 2 – Sete Cidades & Coastal Mosteiros
Our first big outing was to the famous twin lakes of Sete Cidades. The drive was short (about 30 minutes), which was just enough time for a car nap. At Vista do Rei viewpoint, we stood in awe — the baby snoozing peacefully in the carrier while we soaked in the turquoise and emerald lakes below.
Later, we rolled the stroller through the quiet village of Sete Cidades and had tea at a famous teahouse.
By afternoon, we drove to Mosteiros, a beautiful coastal town, where we soaked in the sun by the sea and had late lunch at a small joint on the main square.
Day 3 – Furnas & Thermal Gardens
Furnas felt like stepping into another world. The ground literally bubbles with geothermal steam, and the air smells faintly of sulfur. As we went in the morning, we explored the area almost all by ourselves.
Then we spent an hour wandering the Terra Nostra Gardens, which were wide and stroller-friendly. The giant ferns and tropical flowers were magical even for us adults, and while the baby can’t tell us yet, I like to think she loved the colours too. It felt like a jungle from the Jurassic period! We also wanted to dip into the famous orange thermal pool but our daughter got a bit cranky, so we skipped this special sunbathing.
Lunch was cozido at Tony’s a traditional stew cooked underground in volcanic heat (We reserved the place beforehand and I suggest you do the same, as the place is packed!). I must say I really enjoyed the Cozido and can’t say it tasted much different than normal stew.
On the way back we stopped at Cha Gorreana, the oldest tea factory in Europe. It was so foggy we could barely see the plantations and honestly it felt like a bit of a tourist trap. however, the tea was on the house and it was delicious.
Day 4 – Pineapple Farm and Botanical Garden
Did you know pineapples grow in greenhouses in the Azores? Unlike the tropical fields you might picture, the cool, volcanic climate here means they need shelter to thrive. At the pineapple farm – Ananases A Arruda, you can wander through glasshouses filled with every stage of the pineapple-growing process – from tiny sprouts to fully ripe golden fruit. We packed our daughter in the carrier and she enjoyed the tour!
Guided tours are free (but donations welcome). They show you the traditional methods still used today – no shortcuts, just patience (it takes almost 2 years for one pineapple to ripen!). At the end we looked through the gift shop and opted to try a little bit of everything – the liqueur, fresh jam and chutney, all made from pineapple.
Next, we headed to Jardim Botânico António Borges, a 19th-century romantic garden in Ponta Delgada. This botanical garden feels like stepping back in time — winding pathways, hidden caves, waterfalls, and towering exotic trees collected from around the world.
It offers a peaceful break from the city, perfect for a long stroll or picnic. We were surprised by the collection of rare plants! Also the old stone bridges (and roosters, roaming around freely) make it feel like a fairytale setting.
Day 5 – Whale Watching
If there’s one experience you must not miss in the Azores, it’s whale watching. These islands are one of the best spots in the world to see whales and dolphins year-round, thanks to their location in the middle of the Atlantic. On Day 5, we set out from Ponta Delgada for a afternoon at sea (after my husband returned from the diving in the morning) – and it was unforgettable.
The adventure begins at the marina, where several tour companies offer whale-watching trips (small zodiacs for a thrill, or larger catamarans for comfort). After a short briefing about safety we headed out into the open ocean. Surprisingly they let babies on board the catamarans, too, which is a first – most such tours don’t permit children and pregnant women.
The Azores are home to over 25 different species of whales and dolphins. While sightings vary with the season, we were just in time (May) to be lucky to see some.
A pod of dolphins was dancing in the waves and right beside our boat— and we even saw a family of Sei whales as they dived deep into the Atlantic.
One thing I loved was how the guides emphasised respect for the animals — no chasing, no feeding, just quiet observation. Marine biologists are often onboard, sharing fascinating facts about migration routes and whale behaviour.
Day 6 – Boca do Inferno Trail & Festival of Cristo
We set off east toward Nordeste, one of the island’s quieter corners. The drive itself felt like part of the adventure — winding roads lined with hydrangeas, each bend revealing another jaw-dropping view of cliffs and valleys. The hydrangeas just began to bloom, but for the best time to see these flowers is July!
Our main stop was the Boca do Inferno trail, a peaceful hike that rewards you with sweeping vistas of the coastline and the raw, untamed beauty of São Miguel’s nature. Even with a slower pace, we soaked in the fresh air and greenery all around us. Our daughter was in our carrier and she was smiling and babbling… it’s doable (not really demanding), you just need to watch your step. *You can do this trail when visiting Sete Cidades, we just split it into two days because of the baby.
In the evening, we returned to Ponta Delgada just in time for the Festival of Cristo (24th May). This only happens once a year and all of the Portuguese expats gather to celebrate this religious spectacle. The city was alive with music, processions over streets full of flower petals, and a festive atmosphere — locals and visitors gathering in celebration, lights twinkling against the backdrop of the marina. It was the perfect way to end the day: a mix of natural wonder and cultural tradition, reminding us of the many layers the Azores has to offer.
Day 7 – Nossa Senhora da Paz & Departure
For our final day on the island, we wanted something peaceful, reflective, and beautiful — and the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz above Vila Franca do Campo was the perfect choice.
The chapel sits high on a hilltop, reached by a long, white staircase with ten terraces. Each step is a quiet pause, with traditional blue-and-white azulejos telling the story of Christ along the way. It’s a climb that feels both physical and spiritual, especially knowing this spot has been a place of devotion since the 16th century.
At the top, the reward is more than just the little hermitage. From here, you get a breathtaking panoramic view of Vila Franca do Campo spread out below, with the ocean shimmering and the tiny Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo floating offshore like a jewel. It’s one of those views that captures the essence of São Miguel — nature, history, and serenity all in one.
✨ Last-day takeaway: Standing at Nossa Senhora da Paz, looking over the island one last time, felt like the perfect farewell — a peaceful moment to reflect on our journey and carry a piece of the Azores home with us. It was the perfect way to end our week before heading back to the airport.
✨ Final Thoughts
Traveling São Miguel with a baby was easier than I imagined. The drives are short, the island is stroller-friendly in many places, and locals adore children — everywhere we went, someone smiled or waved at our little one. It wasn’t about rushing to tick every box, but about savouring slow travel moments as a family, surrounded by nature.
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